The Purana-Qila (Purana-Qal's) occupies the ancient mound,
which conceals perhaps the ruins of the city of Indraprastha of
Mahabharata story. Sher Shah Suri demolished the city of Dinpanah built by
Humayun and on the same site raised this citadel.

It is irregularly oblong on plan, with bastions on the corners and in the
western wall. Its ramparts cover a perimeter of nearly 2-km.and has three
main gates on the north, south and west, the last one functioning as the
entrance now. The gates are double-storeyed, built with red sandstone and
surmounted by chhatris. On the inside, against the enclosure wall run
cells in two-bay depth.
Among the three main gates, the northern one is called the
'Talaqi-Darwaza' or the forbidden gate. Why and when the entrance through
it was forbidden is not known. Above the oriel windows on its front are
carved marble leogryphs engaged in combat with a man. The exterior of the
gate was originally decorated with coloured tiles, and the rooms with
incised plasterwork.
Legend Of Old Fort
It is believed that Sher Shah left the Purana-Qila unfinished, and
Humayun completed it. Among the scribblings in ink that existed in a
recess of the gate, there was a mention of Humayun, and it is possible,
therefore, that if the gate was not constructed by Humayun, it was at
least repaired by him. In the southern gate, which is called the
Humayun-Darwaza, there existed a similar inscription in ink mentioning
Sher Shah and the date 950 A.H. (1543-44).
Purana-Qila originally lay on the bank of the
Yamuna. The general depression on the
northern and western sides of the fortress suggests that a wide moat
connected with the river existed on these sides, which were approached
through a causeway connecting the fortress with the main land.
Excavated Site
In 1955, in some trial trenches sunk in the south-eastern portion of the
Purana-Qila, pieces of the Painted Grey Ware turned up, apart from relics
and remains of later period. Since this characteristic ware had been
noticed earlier at several sites associated with the story of the
Mahabharata and had been dated to around 1,000 BC, it's occurrence here
seems to support the tradition of Purana-Qila being the site of
Indraprastha, capital of the Pandavas, heroes of the epic Mahabharata.
Discovering Ancient Remnants
Excavations were resumed here in 1969 along the flanks of the passage
leading to the Water Gate in the eastern wall and continued till 1973. A
settlement of the Painted Grey Ware people has not been located, but a
continuous stratification from the Mauryan to early Mughal period has
certainly emerged. Pieces of the Painted Grey Ware occur, however,
sporadically but among later deposits.
Evidence of the Mauryan Period (c.300 BC) is provided by the existence of
the Northern Black Polished Ware, a fine hard earthen pottery with a
glossy surface, punch-marked coins, human and animal terracotta figurines
and inscribed terracotta seals. Soak-wells lined with terracotta rings and
burnt bricks have also been found, although most of the dwellings were
made of mud bricks or wattle and daub, sometimes reinforced with wooden
posts.
The Northern Black Polished Ware continued during the Sunga Period (c.200
- 100 BC) along with plain red pottery. The houses were largely built of
local rubble or of mud bricks over rubble foundations. Tamped earth or mud
bricks made up the floors. The characteristic art of this period,
reflecting the religious beliefs of people, is represented by small
terracotta plaques modelling semi-divine beings ('yaksas and yaksis').
Uninscribed cast coins of the Mathura kings and terracotta sealings also
occur in these levels.
Stamped decoration marks the red earthenware of the next Saka-Kushan
Period (c.100 BC - AD 300). Firm evidence of the chronology of this period
is provided by the copper currency of the Yaudheyas and Kushans. The
increasing use of burnt brick appears now to lend an urban look to the
settlement.
Surprisingly, in the levels of the succeeding Gupta Period (c.400-600)
the houses that have been encountered are built of brickbats. A
gold-plated coin with the figure of an archer on the obverse and the
legend Sri-Vikrama on the reverse leaves no doubt that it belongs to one
of the Gupta rulers. Inscribed sealings and beautifully modelled human
figurines are other characteristic objects of this period. A coarse red
earthenware, terracotta figurines and pieces of fine but damaged stone
sculpture indicate the occupation of the site during the Post-Gupta Period
(c.700-800).
Towards the end of the Rajput Period (c.900-1200) a massive rubble wall
was raised to enclose perhaps part of the town, although the houses
continued to be built with rubble, brickbats and mud bricks. There was
little change in pottery. Coins of ' bull and horseman ' type, including
those of Samanta Deva, have also been recovered from these levels.
During the succeeding Sultanate rule (1206-1526), rubble and brickbats
were used for ordinary houses. But it witnessed the introduction of glazed
ware, both of Central Asian affinities and local manufacture. Coins of
Balban (1266-1286) and Muhammad Bin Tughluq (1325-1351) have turned up in
these levels.
Typical and fascinating objects of the early Mughal Period (1526-1556),
representing the rule of Babur, Surs and Humayun, came from a refuse dump
of discarded broken household objects. These included jars of
eggshell-thin grey ware, glazed ware dishes and painted Chinese porcelain,
a piece of which bears the Chinese inscription made in the great Ming
Dynasty of the Cheng Hua era' (1465-87). On another piece is inscribed a
fairy tale in Chinese verse. Other interesting objects comprised glass
wine bottles, a gold earring inlaid with emerald and pearls and a coin of
'Adil Shah Sur (1552-53).
Qal' A-I-Kuhna-Masjid
Among the few buildings still extant within the Purana-Qila is the
'Qal'a-i-Kuhna-Masjid' (mosque of the Old Fort), built by Sher Shah in
1541. Its prayer-hall measures 51.20m by 14.90m, and is fronted by five
openings with horseshoe-shaped arches. The central arch, higher than the
others and framed within a projection is flanked by narrow fluted
pilasters.
The recessed surface of the arch, through which there is an opening, is
beautifully decorated with inlay of marble and other stones and contains a
small oriel window at its apex. The two arches on either side are
similarly treated but with less of ornamentation. In the arches at the
ends plain grey stone is used instead of the red stone.
The minhrabs inside the hall are richly decorated with concentric arches,
which enhance the scope for ornamentation. The rear-corners rise with
double-storeyed towers and oriel windows. From both the ends in the hall
staircases lead to a narrow passage on the second storey running right
round the rectangular hall. The central bay of the hall is surmounted by a
beautiful dome, with traces of chhatris on either side. In the courtyard
originally existed a shallow tank provided with a fountain.
This mosque occupies an important position in the development of the
mosque, exemplifying the transition from the Lodi to Mughal styles. The façade
of five arches, oriel windows and corner-towers at the rear are features,
which have developed from the earlier mosques such as the
Bara-Gumbad-Masjid, Moth-ki-Masjid and Jamali-Kamali-Masjid.
Sher-Mandal
To the south of the Qal'a-i-Kuhna-Masjid is a double-storeyed octagonal
tower of red sandstone relived by marble. It is surmounted by an octagonal
pavilion or chhatri. On each of its sides is a recessed arch in the
centre. On the second storey the central chamber is cruciform, with
recesses on its four sides. The dados of its interior are decorated with
glazed tiles, while the upper portion contains incised and painted
plasterwork.
The purpose of the building is not very certain. It may have been built
by Sher Shah as a pleasure resort, but is believed to have been used as a
library by Humayun, from the steps of which he fell down and ultimately
met his end.
Immortal Delhi
A Sound And Light Show At Purana Qila
This is the story of the city of cities
.. DELHI;
of the site where a great empire rose and fell before the dawn of history;
where citadels of emperors appeared and disappeared; a city of mysterious
eternity whose old ruins proclaim a majestic and imperial past and whose
present pulsates vibrantly with the even flowing life force of India.
The eternal Yamuna bears witness to
the glorious and tumultuous 5,000-year-old history of Delhi. A history,
which begins with the creation of Indraprastha by the Pandavas and the
transformation of this barren gift of the Kauravas into an idyllic haven.

A history which encompasses the various kings and emperors who fixed
their royal citadels here - Indraprastha, Lal Kot, Qila Rai Pithora, Siri,
Jahanpanah, Tughlakabad, Ferozabad, Dinapanah, Delhi Sher Shahi or then
Shahjahanabad. But, combined and integrated into one, these 'new cities'
have always been called Delhi and howsoever many names it may have
acquired, Delhi has always been intrinsically identified with power and
imperial sway.
The historic Purana Qila, which has stood witness to Delhi's
rejuvenation, periods of anarchy, and the rise and fall of empires, is the
venue for the spectacular sound and light show which brings alive the
history of the capital. Amidst the tranquility of the splendidly panoramic
environs of Purana Qila, select episodes from the annals of Delhi's
historic and legendary past are brought to life.
The viewer is transported centuries back in time to witness Draupadi
being reduced to a Dasi (maid servant) of Hastinapur, the gallant
Prithviraj Chauhan galloping away with the beauteous Samyogita, Sher Shah
Suri being blown to bits by a misfired cannon, the clash of a sword
weilded by the legendary Razia Sultan, Humayun tragically tumbling down
the steps of his library and Bahadur Shah Zafar surrendering to the
British.
These and many more such episodes out of Delhi's 5,000-year-old saga can
be relived during this evocative 62 minutes Son et Lumiere. Advanced
technology has made it possible to add special effects which combine with
the unique ambience to make this show a hauntingly unforgettable
experience.
The Lake And Zoo
Close to the Old Fort is a lake, which has paddle-boating facility. This
lake is surrounded by a garden with rows of trees and flower plants.
Inside the fort too there are well grafted and maintained lawns, which add
to the greenery in the fort. Delhi's Zoological Park is adjacent to the
Purana Qila.
AROUND PURANA QILA
Bhairon Mandir
Among other buildings outside the Purana Qila are two Hindu
temples, which are dedicated to Bhaironji, an
incarnation of Shiva, the destroyer of the Hindu trinity of Gods. There is
a story around that the temple or at least its core dates back to the time
of Indraprastha.
Conclusion can be derived that the basis of the temple might be of that
era, even though the building itself is not much old. The most amazing
factor of this temple is that the reigning deity of this temple is not
offered milk as is usual in Shiva temples, instead its given alcohol.
There is, however, a regular temple here too called the "Dhudhiya
Bhairon", where one can offer milk.
Khairu's -Manazil-Masjid
In front of the Purana-Qila on the other side of the Mathura road stands
the Khairu'1-Manazil-Masjid ('the most auspicious of houses'), a
rubble-built structure with five arched openings in its prayer-hall,
double-storeyed cloisters and an imposing gateway of red sandstone on the
east.
The central bay of the prayer-hall is provided with a dome, the other
bays being roofed with vaults. Originally the façade of the
prayer-chamber was profusely decorated with enamelled tiles and the
double-storeyed corridors were used as a madrasa.
Over the central arch of the prayer-chamber is an inscription, from which
we learn that Maham Anga built it, with the assistance of Shihab-ud-Din
Ahmad Khan during the reign of Akbar.
The mosque was built in 1561. Maham Anga was one of the wet-nurses of
Akbar and held considerable influence over him. Her son, Adham Khan was a
nobleman and a general in Akbar's army, whose tomb is described elsewhere.
Shihab-ud-Din Ahmad Khan was a relation and friend of Maham Anga and a
powerful courtier, who held the position of the governor of Delhi
at one time.
Sher Shah Gate Or Lal Darwaza
By the side of Khairu'1-Manazil-Masjid to its north lies one of the gates
believed to be an entrance to the extensive city of Delhi built by Sher
Shah sprawling in front of his citadel of Purana-Qila. The gate is largely
built with red sandstone with some use of local grey quartzite in its
upper storey, and is, therefore, also known as Lal-Darwaza. Later the
arcades from this gate into the city appear to have been provided with
series of apartments fronted by a verandah, which were possibly used as
shops. Another gate on the periphery of Sher Shah's extensive city is said
to be the 'Kabuli' or Khuni-Darwaza.